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Crate Training: More Than Just a Box (And Why I’m a Convert)
- Marc Edwards
- Sep 21
- 7 min read
When I first started out as a dog owner, I was firmly anti-crate. I remember thinking: “Isn’t a crate just a fancy way of saying ‘cage’?” It seemed too confining, too dystopian, maybe even cruel. My mental image was of bars, locked doors, a dog stuck inside, human guilt hovering around.
Over the years, my stance changed dramatically. Not because I was persuaded by marketing copy or crate manufacturers, but because I saw the results. I saw what happened when crates were introduced thoughtfully: puppies who learned toilet training in weeks, rescue dogs who finally relaxed, anxious dogs who had somewhere to retreat when life got overwhelming. I saw dogs who chose to go into their crate, because it was their safe space.
So yes, I became a convert. And now, I’d argue that when used well, a crate is one of the most powerful tools you have as a dog owner. It goes far beyond “just somewhere to put the dog.”
What a Crate Is - And What It Isn’t
Let’s get one thing straight: a crate is not a punishment. It isn’t a jail cell. It isn’t a tool for locking up your dog when you can’t be bothered.
Used properly, a crate is:
A safe haven or den-like space, where a dog can rest and decompress.
A predictable environment for times when you can’t supervise.
A training tool that helps with impulse control, house training, and separation.
A structure that gives the dog clarity, boundaries, and a sense of security.
Used poorly, a crate becomes exactly what I feared when I was green: a prison. The difference is in how you use it - and whether it’s part of a balanced, structured routine that builds trust.
Crates, Laws, and Culture
You’ll sometimes hear that crates are banned in some countries. Sweden and Finland often get name-checked, and with good reason.
In both countries, strict animal welfare laws limit or outright forbid long-term crating in the home, except for very specific situations such as transport, shows, or medical necessity. Their reasoning? Dogs must have space to move, rest, and interact - not spend long hours confined.
Now, does that mean crate training is useless in those countries? Not at all. The principles - teaching calm, creating a safe space, structuring routines - are still valid. They’re just achieved with alternatives: exercise pens (x-pens), gated rooms, or “safe zones” that provide boundaries without a closed door.
So even if you’re somewhere that discourages or forbids closed-door crating, don’t throw away the philosophy. It’s not about the box itself; it’s about giving your dog predictable structure and a place to settle.
Why Crates Are Powerful (Beyond “Somewhere to Go”)
Here are the major benefits of crate training when it’s done right:
1. House / Potty Training
Dogs generally avoid eliminating where they sleep. A crate creates a clear boundary: “this is rest space, not toilet space.” Pair this with scheduled breaks, and toilet training gets a whole lot quicker.
2. Safety and Damage Prevention
Puppies are chaos machines. Left alone, they’ll chew wires, swallow socks, or demolish a sofa. A crate protects them from hazards - and protects your belongings.
3. Rest and Recovery
Dogs, especially puppies, need far more rest than most owners realise. Overstimulation is a genuine problem. A crate provides a calm retreat and is invaluable after surgery or illness when movement must be restricted.
4. Travel and Vet Visits
A crate-trained dog is calmer in cars, more comfortable when boarding, and less stressed at the vet. The crate becomes a portable safety bubble.
5. Teaching Self-Control
Settling in a crate helps dogs learn impulse control. They discover that calm behaviour earns freedom. This builds emotional regulation - something owners often overlook.
6. Leadership and Routine
Here’s where the balanced perspective comes in: crates aren’t just about the dog. They’re about you setting clear structure. By controlling rest, activity, and boundaries, you demonstrate leadership. Dogs feel safer when they know their human is in charge of the environment.
How Not to Use a Crate
Let’s get the “don’ts” out of the way:
Don’t use it as punishment. If the crate is where the dog gets shoved when “naughty,” you’ve ruined it as a safe space.
Don’t overuse it. Puppies need bathroom breaks every few hours. Adults need exercise and interaction. A crate is not a babysitter.
Don’t choose the wrong size. Too small and it’s cruel. Too big and toilet training fails. Rule of thumb: the dog should be able to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Don’t rush the process. Forcing a reluctant dog into a crate only creates fear.
Step-by-Step: Crate Training That Works
Stage 1: Make It Inviting
Place the crate in a quiet but not isolated area.
Add bedding, toys, a chew - things that are designed to be used with minimum supervision.
Feed the dog inside with the door open.
Stage 2: Short Closed-Door Sessions
Start with seconds, not minutes.
Close the door briefly, reward calm, open again.
Stage 3: Build Duration Gradually
Owners need concrete numbers, so here’s a sample progression:
Consistency matters more than speed. Some dogs fly through in days; others need weeks.
Stage 4: Integration Into Routine
Use the crate after walks, play sessions, or during meals. Build it into the daily rhythm so it becomes normal - not exceptional.
This is a general guide that covers the basics for most dogs. If you feel you need something more bespoke, please get in touch.
What About Whining and Barking?
This is the question every new owner asks.
There is only one general rule here: don’t cave in. If you let the dog out mid-whine, you’ve taught them persistence pays. Guess how long they’ll whine next time?
Instead:
Wait for a pause, even a single second of silence, and mark the moment.
Open the crate calmly, no big fuss.
Gradually increase how long the silence needs to be before release.
Yes, the first few nights can be noisy. Yes, you’ll feel cruel. But structure beats chaos. You’re teaching the dog that calm behaviour opens doors, not whining.
However, this does assume a few things:
That you have worked to increase the duration that your dog is comfortable in the crate.
That you have worked to help the dog be comfortable without you in the room.
That the dog isn't suffering from "true" separation anxiety, which is a deep-seated psychological problem which goes far beyond a bit of persistent barking.
Enrichment: Making the Crate Worthwhile
A crate should feel rewarding, not boring. Beyond bedding and toys, here are specific enrichment ideas:
Frozen Kong: Kibble mixed with peanut butter or yoghurt, frozen for a long-lasting chew.
LickiMat: Spread with wet food or mashed banana, frozen for extra duration.
Bully sticks / natural chews: Supervised use only.
Durable chew toys: Benebone, Nylabone, etc.
Snuffle mat inside crate: Turns mealtime into a puzzle.
If the crate is Disneyland, your dog will want to go in.
Crating Adult Dogs and Rescues
Much crate content is puppy-focused, but many owners adopt adult dogs or rescues. These dogs may:
Never have seen a crate.
Have trauma from past confinement.
Show anxiety when doors close.
Tips for adults/rescues:
Go even slower. Seconds, not minutes.
Use high-value rewards: chicken, cheese, not just kibble.
Start with the door open. Only close once the dog chooses to go in freely.
Don’t treat resistance as “stubbornness.” It’s often uncertainty or fear.
Pair crate with exercise - a tired dog is more likely to settle.
Troubleshooting: My Dog Hates the Crate
Here’s a simple decision flow you can follow:
Is the crate the right size? If no → get a bigger one.
Have you rushed it? If yes → go back to Stage 1.
Is the dog exercised? If no → more walks/play.
Is it comfortable? Bedding, location, airflow matter.
Is enrichment provided? If no → add a chew or puzzle.
If all else fails: slow down, seek help, and don’t make it a battle.
Alternatives to Crates
Not every situation suits a closed crate. Alternatives include:
Exercise pens (x-pens). Larger, less restrictive, but still safe.
Gated rooms. Puppy-proof a utility room or kitchen.
Open crates. Door left open, dog free to come and go.
Covered beds/dens. A crate-like feel without the door.
Remember: it’s not about the tool itself, but the principle of providing a safe, structured space.
Quick Q&A
Q: What if my dog has an accident in the crate?
A: Clean with an enzymatic cleaner. Don’t punish. Revisit toilet schedule.
Q: Can I cover the crate?
A: Yes, if it helps your dog relax - but ensure good airflow.
Q: How long should a dog stay crated after training?
A: As a rough guide, I'd say puppies: 2–3 hours max. Adults: maybe 4-5 during the day. My dogs are crated overnight, which is around 8-9 hours.
Key Takeaways
A crate is not a jail. It’s a tool for structure, safety, and training.
Used wisely, it speeds toilet training, prevents damage, and teaches self-control.
Structure and leadership are as important as positive association. The crate works because the human is setting clear boundaries.
Don’t cave to whining. Reward calm. Build up duration slowly.
Puppies, adults, and rescues all benefit - but progression must fit the dog.
In countries where crates are restricted (Sweden, Finland), the principle of safe, structured space still applies - use pens or gated rooms.
My Reflection: From Sceptic to Advocate
I used to think crates were cruel. But now, I’ve seen too many dogs whose lives (and owners’ sanity) improved because of them. Puppies who didn’t destroy sofas. Rescues who finally rested. Dogs who travelled calmly.
Would I support blanket crating for 12 hours a day? Absolutely not. But when used as part of a balanced, structured system where the human provides leadership, crates transform chaos into calm. And sometimes, that small box opens the biggest doors for peace in the household.
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